Friday, January 9, 2015

Christie's Skirt and Blouse pt 2

I did get to Joann Fabrics.  Because of the end of 2014 season the place was a MESS.  They were out of a lot of the fabric I had in mind for this project.  And there were bolts all over, including the floor.  It was very difficult to find anything.  I did decide on polyester shantung for the skirt because I couldn't find anything else.  I usually would choose a cotton blend or something at least better than full polyester.   But anyway. . . .  I chose black, because I couldn't find anything else.  Do I sound frustrated, I was.

So leaving that behind..... I washed the fabric.  It took me ages to surrender to washing the fabric before I make the garment.  In lots of fabric, sizing makes it look so nice compared to when it is washed out.  And then, after washing you have to do the ironing to get it to look nice again.  And, honestly, the biggest reason I would skip the washing was because I just wanted to dive into the project and not wait!  But on the other hand, I have had costumes shrink in strange ways because I didn't wash them first.  I finally learned.

Now I wash the fabric or dry clean if fabric instruction indicate , and when I store it I attach a post-it with all the info on the fabric including that it has been washed.

If I hadn't used the pattern before I make a mock up from usually a fabric from my stash that will also work as a lining.  It took me a long time to learn this lesson also.  The fact that I can use it as a lining helped me get to the stage of making a mock up.  On this project I am skipping the mock up....listen to what I say, not what I do!!   I have done this pattern several times so I know how it works and how the sizes are.

So, the "Fashion" (the fabric on the outside of the garment)  fabric is laid out, usually folded lengthwise, with the pattern on top, with the grain so you will have 2 pieces of each pattern piece or 1 if you are cutting "on the fold".   Once in a while you will hit a pattern piece so large that you need to cut on a single layer.

Of course, Missey has to make sure I am doing it right!









mmmx






The fabric is cut out using a rotary cutter.  the arrows on the cutting line are clipped in from the line about 1/8 of an inch to mark where you will match seams.

Darts are marked with tailor chalk on the wrong (or inside) side of the fabric, or tailor tacks (or my shortcut method of just pins).  Mark both layers of the fabric.



















By the way, the fashion side of this fabric is duller and has the raised shantung thread lines.
















Can you see the 3 dart dots?
















The two dots near the fabric edge are brought together and matched like below
















 The fabric is folded (wrong side of the fabric is to the outside) to the point of the 3rd dot.  Then, the line between the top dots and 3rd dot is sewn along to create the dart.
















2 darts prior to ironing.

















 The next step is to French seams on the side seams.






Thursday, January 8, 2015

Christie's Skirt and Blouse

Christie is our fearless leader at Ardenwood.  And I am going to try my hand at making her a new outfit.  It needs to be done by April when Ardenwood's 2015 season starts.

She said she wanted something in a dark color, straight in the front for the skirt.  Since this is for her work (at Ardenwood)  she has to look period, but be able to move easily.  She needs to be able to get into it fairly quickly and easily by herself.

Several people that haven't really sewed have asked me to show all the steps to putting this together, so here goes.

This is the pattern I will be using for the skirt:


























 I will be using the version with no poufs in back and not ruffle on the bottom.

First I copy the original pattern pieces I will need in the sizes that I will need.  The tracing paper I use is actually a roll of the thin paper the doctor uses on his examining table.  But it works great for patterns.















All marks on the pattern of the size needed are copied on the paper.
Such as the arrow showing how the pattern is placed in relation to the grain of the fabric. It is the line with the arrows at each end.

Also there is the symbol for placing the fabric on the fold, at the bottom of this photo.  It is a line with an arrow at each end pointing to the line the fold goes on.















The darts for the size being used will also need to be traced.
















And the little arrowheads that mark where seams should be matched are also traced.
















The name and number of the pattern is written on each pattern along with the name of that pattern piece and number of pieces to cut.




















This pattern runs short for the skirt which ends up just right for me, but for Christie, I had to add some to the bottom of the skirt pieces.  I added a note in red to remind me in the future.
















 I then added 8 inches to the end of the skirt pieces.  The ruler must be kept parallel to the "grain" line while marking added length.
















By the way, I use "weights" to hold down the tracing paper while I am tracing patterns.















So now that we have the patterns all traced, I am off to Joann Fabrics to find material to use in the next step.





















































Monday, January 5, 2015

No, they are not looking at their cell phones.


One of our costume people posted a bunch of photos from the early 1900s.  My first impression of these two were that they were looking at their cell phones! LOL  I guess that is because it is such a common thing in our times.




Sunday, January 4, 2015

Aunt Edna, Rest in Peace

One year ago today, our dear "Laughing Aunt" Edna passed away.  She left quite a legacy to emulate.


Saturday, January 3, 2015

Ah Ha! Guess what I am going to tackle!

Daughter #1 has said ok to attending the :

BARBECUE AT TWELVE OAKS

Saturday, April 18th, 2015

The Rengstorff House in Mountain View provides an elegant backdrop for a gracious 1860's style fully catered barbeque. Will you sit at a table, or in a crowd of men on the grass?
Ticket Price: $$



I have never attempted an 1860 era dress before so this ought to be fun.
Sitting in a bustle is easy, but I may have nightmares about sitting in a hoop skirt!!  Just how do you "sit at a table"?  How do you sit on a chair without your skirt shooting up to the ceiling????  Is there a tutorial that exists?

PS:
I found this tutorial so. . . .Ok, daughters!  No plopping or it will be like in the "King and I" !!!!!     So, watch this tutorial!     http://historicalsewing.com/how-to-sit-in-hoopskirt

Friday, January 2, 2015

2015 Events


So far the 2015 events on the Greater Bay Area Costume Guild  calendar are:

New York Society Tea

Saturday, December 27th, 2014

Come celebrate the holidays, Gilded Age style! We’ll enjoy a sumptuous tea, holiday cheer, and the very best possible company in the incomparable Garden Court. Costume: daywear, 1870-1889.
Ticket Price: $$$$

Costume Salon: Game of Thrones

Sunday, January 11th, 2015

Join us for potluck tea, snacks, socializing, and sharing resources. Theme appropriate books, patterns, garments and projects are welcome. No costume is required. If you'd like to attend, emailcostumesalons@gbacg.org.
Ticket Price: Free

GBACG Open House

Saturday, January 24th, 2015

We invite all our Members, Non-members, and Sister Organization Members to join us at the Albany Veterans' Hall for our annual meeting where we highlight upcoming events, raffle costume items, present a fashion show, and other fun stuff. Meet your board members, see old friends, and so much more. Free for members, $5 for non-members.
Ticket Price: $

GBACG Workshop, Topic TBD

Saturday, February 7th, 2015

Expand your skills at this hands-on workshop. Details coming soon.




GBACG Goes To: The Presidents' Tea at the Camron-Stanford House

Sunday, February 15th, 2015

Originally built in 1876 by Samuel Merritt, The Camron-Stanford House is the last surviving example of the gracious Victorian-era homes that once ringed Lake Merritt in Oakland. Join us for tea in this delicious venue.
Ticket price: TBD

Game of Thrones

Saturday, February 28th, 2015

Against the beautiful backdrop of Napa's Castello di Amorosa, you can plot to steal the Seven Kingdoms' Iron Throne.
Ticket price: $$$

Costume Salon: Mid 19th-Century

Sunday, March 1st, 2015


Join us for potluck tea, snacks, socializing, and sharing resources. Theme appropriate books, patterns, garments and projects are welcome. No costume is required. If you'd like to attend, emailcostumesalons@gbacg.org.
Ticket Price: Free




Costume Academy

  Costume Academy will be March 14th at History San Jose. More info coming

It's Back! After a hiatus, we're re-introducing our re-vamped epic day of enlightening lectures, hands-on workshops, inspiring camraderie and extraordinary shopping in a new location at History San Jose.
Ticket Price: $$$


GBACG Goes To: The High Style Exhibit at the de Young Museum

Sunday, March 29th, 2015

At the de Young, we'll take in the traveling exhibition, High Style: The Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection.
Ticket price: TBD




GBACG Workshop, Topic TBD

Saturday, April 11th, 2015

Expand your skills at this hands-on workshop. Details coming soon.

Barbecue At Twelve Oaks

Saturday, April 18th, 2015

The Rengstorff House in Mountain View provides an elegant backdrop for a gracious 1860's style fully catered barbeque. Will you sit at a table, or in a crowd of men on the grass?
Ticket Price: $$




GBACG Lecture: Speaker TBD

Sunday, April 26th, 2015

Come learn from an expert in our field.
Ticket Price: $

A League of Their Own Reunion Picnic

Sunday, May 3rd, 2015

Calling all Rockford Peaches, Kenosha Comets, and Racine Belles! Support the All-American Girls Professional Baseball League (1943-1954) at a reunion picnic for players, fans and families. Whether you play or prefer to spectate in 1950's style, you can't go wrong at this t-ball game and picnic in an East Bay park.
Ticket price: $

GBACG Goes To: PEERS - Doctor Who Time Travels to 1756

Saturday, June 6th, 2015

Don your 18th century dance wear. Doctor Who travels through the fireplace to Madame du Pompadour's Grand Costume ball at this PEERS dance in the stunning Alameda Elks Lodge.
Ticket Price: $

Costume Salon: Edwardian

Sunday, June 7th, 2015

Join us for potluck tea, snacks, socializing, and sharing resources. Theme appropriate books, patterns, garments and projects are welcome. No costume is required. If you'd like to attend, emailcostumesalons@gbacg.org.
Ticket Price: Free

Zorro Rescues the Peralta Adobe

Sunday, June 14th, 2015

Picnic in pre-gold-rush California style at Peralta Adobe where you will, perhaps, encounter an enigmatic stranger in a distinctive sombrero cordobés. Costume is 1830's and 40's, or Californio.
Ticket Price: $

GBACG Workshop, Topic TBD

Saturday, June 27th, 2015

Expand your skills at this hands-on workshop. Details coming soon.

Edwardian Summer Whites Picnic

Sunday, July 19th, 2015

Beautiful lace-trimmed white cotton dresses, called lingerie-dresses, were the Edwardian era's practical answer beating the summer heat. Don your Edwardian "whites" (or colors) and enjoy a spirited afternoon lawn bowling at the Lawn Bowling Club in Palo Alto.
Ticket Price: $$$

Sailing With the President

GBACG Goes To: The USS Potomac

Saturday, August 29th, 2015

Put on your Deco and WWII era fashions and cruise the San Francisco Bay on the USS Potomac. This ship, also known as the "Floating White House", served as Franklin Delano Roosevelt's Presidential Yacht from 1936-1945. The ship leaves from Jack London Square in Oakland.
Ticket Price: $$$

Costume Salon: Doctor Who

Sunday, September 6th, 2015

Join us for potluck tea, snacks, socializing, and sharing resources. Theme appropriate books, patterns, garments and projects are welcome. No costume is required. If you'd like to attend, emailcostumesalons@gbacg.org.
Ticket Price: Free

Brighton by the Sea - A Beach Picnic

Saturday, September 19th, 2015

"They must all go to Brighton." Follow Lydia Bennet's famous advice from Pride and Prejudice, and join us for a lively Regency-inspired seaside picnic at Pescadero.
Ticket Price: $


GBACG Workshop, Topic TBD

Saturday, September 26th, 2015

Expand your skills at this hands-on workshop. Details coming soon.


GBACG Lecture: Speaker TBD

Sunday, October 4th, 2015

Come learn from an expert in our field.
Ticket Price: $


Doctor Who Who-Dunnit Murder Mystery

Saturday, October 17, 2015

Come join us at the Hiller Aviation Museum in San Carlos for an evening of murder and mayhem, time-travel style.
Ticket Price: $$$

GBACG Workshop, Topic TBD

Sunday, November 8th, 2015

Expand your skills at this hands-on workshop. Details coming soon.

Picnic at Cypress Lawn

Sunday, November 15th, 2015

Tour the ranks of the dearly departed in a horse-drawn carriage at Colma's historic Cypress Lawn Cemetery, featuring one of the largest stained glass collections in the US. Victorian mourning attire would be just the thing.
Ticket Price: $$

GBACG goes to Dickens

Saturday, December 5th, 2015

The GBACG goes to the The Great Dickens Christmas Fair. Visit with friends and make merry in Dickens' London with our annual GBACG meet-up. We'll meet up at various locations throughout the day and admire each others costumes, meeting old friends and making new.
Ticket Price: $

Holiday Tea

Saturday, December 26th, 2015

Come celebrate the holidays, Gilded Age style! We'll enjoy a sumptuous Boxing Day tea, holiday cheer, and the very best possible company. Costume is daywear, 1870-1889. Location TBD.
Ticket Price: $$$$

GBACG Open House

Saturday, January 16th, 2016

We invite all our Members, Non-members, and Sister Organization Members to join us for our annual meeting where we highlight upcoming events, raffle costume items, present a fashion show, and other fun stuff. Meet your board members, see old friends, and so much more. Location TBD. Free for members, $5 for non-members.
Ticket Price: $

Costume Salon: 17th Century

Sunday, February 7, 2016

Join us for potluck tea, snacks, socializing, and sharing resources. Theme appropriate books, patterns, garments and projects are welcome. No costume is required. If you'd like to attend, emailcostumesalons@gbacg.org.
Ticket Price: Free

An Egyptian Expedition

Sunday, February 21st, 2016

At the Rosicrucian Egyptian Museum in San Jose, we shall explore the treasures of Egypt that deeply influenced the design aesthetic of our early 20th century fashion.
Ticket Price: $$

Court of the Sun King

May 2016, exact date TBD

While the details of this event are still evolving, you can nonetheless plan on a glittering evening of 17th century elegance.
Ticket Price: $$$$







Thursday, January 1, 2015

Leaving 2014 and on to 2015

I've been regrouping after San Francisco and thinking about what 2015 is going to have in store.  I know I will be grand-dog and grand-cat sitting in May and I know August is going to include a visit to Oregon where the family will meet for a reunion and celebrate my step-mother's 85th birthday.   And who knows what other activities may come along. . .

In the mean time, I have joined the Historically Sew Monthly Challenges 2015. (if you click on the icon of it on the right side of the screen, it will take you to the web site for more information.)   It will be a lot less stressful and realistic for me to finish each project once a month, instead of every 2 weeks like before.

The Challenges are:

January - Foundations: make something that is the foundation of a period outfit.

February - Colour Challenge Blue:  Make an item that features blue in any shade from azure to zaffre.

March - Stashbusting:  Make something using only fabric, patterns, trims & notions that you already have in stash.

April - War and Peace:  the extrems of conflict and long periods of peacetime both influence what people wear.  Make something that shows the effects of war, or of extended peace.

May - Practicality:  Fancy party frocks are all very well, but everyone, even princess, sometimes needs a practical garment that you can DO things in.  Create the jeans-and-T-shirt-get-the-house-clean-and-garden-sorted outfit of your chosen period.

June - Out of your Comfort Zone:  Create a garment from a time period you haven't done before, or that uses a new skill or technique that you've never tried before.

July - Accessorize:  The final touch of the right accessory creates the perfect period look.  Bring an outfit together by creating an accessory to go with your historical wardrobe.

August - Heirlooms and Heritage:  Re-create a garment one of your ancestors wore or would have worn, or use an heirloom sewing supply to create a new heirloom to pass down to the next generations.

September - Color Challenge Brown:  It's not the most exciting colour by modern standards, but brown has been one of the most common, and popular, colors throughout history.  Make something brown.

October - Sewing Secrets:  Hide something in your sewing, whether it is an almost invisible mend, a secret pocket, a false fastening or front, or a concealed message (such as a political or moral allegiance).

November - Silver Screen:  Be inspired by period fashions as shown onscreen (film or TV), and recreate your favourite costume as a historically accurate period piece.

December - Re-Do:  It's the last challenge of the year, so let's keep things simple by redoing any of the previous 11 challenges.

Then, of course, there are the Greater Bay Area Costume Guild events.  We attended the Downton Abbey Ball and the New York Society Tea in 2014.  Hopefully we will get to more in 2015.  So now to see if I can coordinate the challenges with the Costume Guild events!