Sunday, September 21, 2014

New Project - Hat!

I've started a new project since Jen won't be down for fitting until Wed.  I decided to make a hat for her outfit.

I am using an old pattern but doing my own tweeking.

I cut out two layers of buckram for the top and the crown and 4 layers for the brim.  Then each layer was glued together by just using a damp cloth and hot iron and steaming them together.

Then I sewed the wire on the edges needed.

Then the top and the crown pieces were cut out of flannel and 2 pieces of flannel were cut for the brim (for the top and bottom.  The felt softens the hat before you add the fashion fabric so hard edges of the buckram won't show as much.  The flannel is basted to the top and then crown and the top and crown are sewn together.

Fashion fabric is cut for the top, crown and 2 for the brim.  These have to be larger than the buckram pieces.  The fabric is added to the top by basting about 1/4 inch around the crown.  The fabric is trimmed so there aren't any wrinkles.  The crown fabric is added turning under the top edge and taking tiny stitches.  The bottom edge of the crown is turned under and basted .

Fabric added to the top.
The bottom edge of the crown is turned under and basted .

Next the brim is covered with the flannel.  I started with the top side and I added a shallow curve to the edge by cutting the edge in about 1 inch and overlapping the edges into a wedge and stitching them.  I basted around the wire line where the crown will attach to the brim and marked the cutting line where the center will be cut later.

 Then the bottom was covered, basting the edge and where the crown will be attached.

And the fabric was added to the brim, the bottom first by basting the line where the crown will be attached, thus marking it.

Then the top fabric was added, basted at the edge through all layers.

The edge was trimmed.

And grosgrain ribbon added to the outside edge.

By this time my fingers are getting a little sore from all the hand sewing through buckram so I am taking a break.

The next step is to add the crown/top to the brim and sew them together.  This is the hardest part since it is through thick buckram so I have the plier ready!  And thimble.

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