Real Victorian Hat & Reproduction

I want to tell you I am no expert in hat making, but I have attended a one day class many years ago when I first started as a docent at Ardenwood, a historical park in Fremont, CA.  We had to come up with our own historical outfits, including hats.  That was before "internet" and there were not a lot of resources for the every day person to learn how to reproduce the authentic "look".  Mostly we had the movies to look to for closeup details and I must say most movies were pretty bad at their "look".

The Internet is invaluable for all its information and contacts with others with the same interests.  If you are interested in hats this is a site that has this wonderful tutorial:
 http://thedreamstress.com/2013/03/tutorial-how-to-turn-a-straw-sunhat-into-an-18th-century-bergere/

TheDreamstress.com is where I found the challenges I have been doing.  A whole group of people with interest of reproducing historical clothing (in all eras) has gathered together in these challenges.

With that said, yesterday was so busy I really did not have time to work on the hat I am currently making so I thought I would share the Victorian hat I found about 25 years ago at a flea market.  The hat is made of black velvet on a base of buckram with wire around the hat top edge and brim edge.  It has a polished cotton inside the hat top, straw for filler, and 2 buckles and ostrich feathers for decoration.  It is now in need for some restoration because some of the threads are now letting go.  So, that is a good time to try to see where we would not normally be able to see.  The velvet is in great shape but the top ostrich feather has a little wear that a drop of black paint may fix.

This is the Victorian hat.  You can see all the folds of what looks like loose velvet on the brim of the hat


 On the hat top you can see layers of the velvet circling the sides.

 And in the front is this pretty little buckle with a bit of velvet through it.

 As we circle the hat you can see there are velvet bow-like loops that cover the ends of the feathers.

There are 3 full ostrich feathers and at the top end of them is this large buckle holding a puff of the velvet.

 As we continue around you can see more of the "loose" velvet folds.  Actually the velvet is tacked down here and there.  The hat pin did not come with the hat but I leave it in the hat so I don't have to pierce the velvet every time I wear it.

 Now going underneath the brim, see all the folds along the brim.  These go all the way around but are larger near the front which is at the bottom of the photo.  They are actually just strips of velvet hand baisted together.  These threads are starting to break so I will be replacing them. 

This view shows the hat top with the white buckram showing, the polished cotton lining, and the side "flap" where the lining meets the brim.  The two light spots on each side of the flap are pieces of a light blue silk that was a piece of silk formed into a loose flower.  The silk was so shattered I just removed it .  I use this flap to pin the hat to my hair to stabilize it.  I intend to try to reproduce the silk flower.















And then, a little peek inside...... 

The brim layers of velvet strips separating.  Buckram showing inside.

Little pieces of straw showing.  It was used to puff up the velvet a bit.

Buckram and straw showing.

And this is my reproduction of sorts of the Victorian hat:

The front- I used green velvet and peacock feathers.  The buckle is just from the fabric store.

The back - the "loose" folds and a pin with charms instead of a 2nd buckle.

The folds of velvet strips at the brim edge.

And the lining with buckram showing?????  Not buckram, a child's plastic woven Easter hat I used for the hat top.  I did use buckram for the brim.

And the "flap".  I use this for pinning the hat with bobby pins to my hair.  They don't show.

Hope you enjoyed seeing the Victorian hat.  I feel it is really special and often think about the woman hat maker that made it.  I sure would have loved to visit her hat shop!